Scout Finch

We always like to break up our trips back to England with a short stopover in Asia – both to help us break up the boring flights, and also as a “free” way to see another country we might not otherwise get to visit. Last year, the place of choice was Seoul in South Korea, and with our three nights and two days there, it seemed only fair that we each get to plan a day’s activities and then play the nights by ear. So, after a day of political and historical touring of the DMZ and scaring ourselves to death with the craziness that is North Korea, I had my turn with the map and carried out a classic Scout and Finch tour. Of course this led to a day of vintage shopping (see last post on Gwangjang Market – click here to have a quick recap), traditional tea, arts and crafts and a walk around the stunning Changgyeonggung Palace. First up, the palace. Located in the heart of Seoul, the Changgyeonggung Palace was first built by the 4th ruler of the Joseon Dynasty, King Sejong (r.1418-1450), for his retiring father, King Taejong. It often served as residential quarters for queens and concubines.  It later became a park with a zoo and a botanical garden during Japanese colonial rule. The palace was then relocated in 1983 and regained its old grace after years of restoration. Pardon me for being frank but it’s a stunning place to hide the mistresses, while off ruling the empire. An old-fashioned version of the penthouse and fur coats! It’s well worth reading the many signs and walking into each section around the grounds to get a full grasp of the many lives this palace has lived. \ After a long walk around the palace, it was time for traditional tea. Before flying out of Brisbane, I had read about this wonderful traditional tea garden, Dawon. It is set in the heart of the bustling district, Insa-Dong, yet still has the calm and tranquillity of a traditional tea house surrounded by perfectly sculptured gardens and museums.

The door to the tea garden. This is a great landmark to try and find this hidden gem.

This is the perfect place to unwind on a warm summer evening, nestled under the shady fruit trees in this courtyard with flickering candles. I’ve read it’s also gorgeous in the winter as you sit indoors in hanok rooms decorated with scribbles or in the garden pavilion. Small art and museum exhibition spaces surround the courtyard. The teas are superb, and the cold tea drinks are just stunning. It’s rather hard to find but do persist. See below for details. Do prepare to ask the locals as it’s a little hidden away down a few alley ways behind old restaurants. A few steps down is the amazing Ssamziegil Market – still in the Insa-Dong (인사동) neighborhood. The market is a popular place for visitors and locals alike. To reach the upper levels, a gently-sloping ramp winds around the courtyard, measuring about half a kilometre from ground-level to roof-top deck. Along the way you’ll pass about 70 glass storefronts, most of which don’t exceed 10 square metres. These small businesses offer a nice mix of established artisans with the work of young and upcoming artists. Some integrate traditional Korean themes into their craft, while others sell goods with no Korean cultural affinity. All of these tiny shops are rented out to local artisans or university students from the surrounding art schools and colleges. The market is full of an amazing array of tiny shops highlighting food, arts, and crafts from local artists. It also boasts a few vintage shops with some quirky finds – one of them had a photo of the actress Amanda Seyfried who had bought up big at the vintage store. I’m also told that downstairs you can partake in traditional Korean paper craft, mother of pearl inlay or candle making. Getting there: Insa-Dong 8-gil, Insa-Dong Metro: Line 3 to Anguk, Exit 6