Scout Finch

We always like to break up our trips back to England with a short stopover in Asia – both to help us break up the boring flights, and also as a “free” way to see another country we might not otherwise get to visit. Last year, the place of choice was Seoul in South Korea, and with our three nights and two days there, it seemed only fair that we each get to plan a day’s activities and then play the nights by ear. So, after a day of political and historical touring of the DMZ and scaring ourselves to death with the craziness that is North Korea, I had my turn with the map and carried out a classic Scout and Finch tour. Of course this led to a day of vintage shopping (see last post on Gwangjang Market – click here to have a quick recap), traditional tea, arts and crafts and a walk around the stunning Changgyeonggung Palace. First up, the palace. Located in the heart of Seoul, the Changgyeonggung Palace was first built by the 4th ruler of the Joseon Dynasty, King Sejong (r.1418-1450), for his retiring father, King Taejong. It often served as residential quarters for queens and concubines.  It later became a park with a zoo and a botanical garden during Japanese colonial rule. The palace was then relocated in 1983 and regained its old grace after years of restoration. Pardon me for being frank but it’s a stunning place to hide the mistresses, while off ruling the empire. An old-fashioned version of the penthouse and fur coats! It’s well worth reading the many signs and walking into each section around the grounds to get a full grasp of the many lives this palace has lived. \ After a long walk around the palace, it was time for traditional tea. Before flying out of Brisbane, I had read about this wonderful traditional tea garden, Dawon. It is set in the heart of the bustling district, Insa-Dong, yet still has the calm and tranquillity of a traditional tea house surrounded by perfectly sculptured gardens and museums.

The door to the tea garden. This is a great landmark to try and find this hidden gem.

This is the perfect place to unwind on a warm summer evening, nestled under the shady fruit trees in this courtyard with flickering candles. I’ve read it’s also gorgeous in the winter as you sit indoors in hanok rooms decorated with scribbles or in the garden pavilion. Small art and museum exhibition spaces surround the courtyard. The teas are superb, and the cold tea drinks are just stunning. It’s rather hard to find but do persist. See below for details. Do prepare to ask the locals as it’s a little hidden away down a few alley ways behind old restaurants. A few steps down is the amazing Ssamziegil Market – still in the Insa-Dong (인사동) neighborhood. The market is a popular place for visitors and locals alike. To reach the upper levels, a gently-sloping ramp winds around the courtyard, measuring about half a kilometre from ground-level to roof-top deck. Along the way you’ll pass about 70 glass storefronts, most of which don’t exceed 10 square metres. These small businesses offer a nice mix of established artisans with the work of young and upcoming artists. Some integrate traditional Korean themes into their craft, while others sell goods with no Korean cultural affinity. All of these tiny shops are rented out to local artisans or university students from the surrounding art schools and colleges. The market is full of an amazing array of tiny shops highlighting food, arts, and crafts from local artists. It also boasts a few vintage shops with some quirky finds – one of them had a photo of the actress Amanda Seyfried who had bought up big at the vintage store. I’m also told that downstairs you can partake in traditional Korean paper craft, mother of pearl inlay or candle making. Getting there: Insa-Dong 8-gil, Insa-Dong Metro: Line 3 to Anguk, Exit 6

When we first decided to visit Seoul, I did what any normal vintage lover does and Googled Vintage + Seoul. I do this every time we decide to visit a new place.  Normally I find a lot of references to fake vintage shops that really mean overpriced yuppy stuff that someone has already been through, hiked up the prices by another 40% and then thrown in some new stuff to flesh it out. Not this time, I was over the moon to find so many treasures and gems when I searched for Seoul. One place that sparked my interest was a few mentions of the Gwangjang Market. This market is very hard to find (well was for us) – first we got off the wrong subway stop. Turns out there is also a Jongno 3-ga station. We were meant to get off at the Jongno 5-ga station. Easy mistake, but boy was it a big one. After half an hour, walking around trying out our very poor language skills and me acting out charades for vintage clothes shopping (at one point it looked like I was trying to milk a cow while mimicking purchasing said cow!), Mr Ed cottoned on to the fact there are two stations. Back on the sub and we found it. However, once we got there it just looked like a large food market with plenty street food stalls, like any corner of Seoul.

The food markets downstairs.

Once again, ready to give up with a heavy heart, Mr Ed came to the rescue again. After walking up and down the market for another half an hour (the market is the size of a block), he spied some trendy Seoul hipsters walking up some non-descript stairs and decided they knew what they were looking for. With stealth like moves, we followed the poor couple who did start to look rather alarmed at how close I was following them. And then as we turned a corner, I felt like little vintage angels begun singing while strumming their harps. It was magnificent. It was aisle-upon-aisle of crammed vintage little market stalls.

Just a glimpse!

The whole top floor was dedicated to little vintage stalls, selling a mixture of genuine items, relatively newer versions, brilliant knock-offs and/or creations the store owners had created using different pieces. I was so relieved I nearly moon walked up and down the aisles. But the Seoul hipsters were still watching – and boy they are a trendy lot.  So I shook it off and began to act cool and did what I had been preparing for my whole life. Shop. And shop. Every vintage shop I had visited prior to this was just practice; this was truly the holy grail of vintage markets.

In vintage heaven

The prices were very cheap and the store owners (that we met) were very cool – one even went as far to tell me upfront a Burberry style jacket with a 50s cut was a fake just in case I didn’t know. I walked away with two funky Mad Men style shirts – with funky cuffs, a green flowy 40s style silk skirt and a cool black denim jacket with cool buttons. Oh yes, the store owners love bargaining and love the challenge. Go on give it a go! They are lovely and expect you to bargain. I could have bought loads more, but restrained as it was my first day in town.

Happy as well…you get the rest

I highly recommend you visit when next in Seoul. But before you do please read my instructions so you don’t find yourself acting out charades and stalking Seoul hipsters. Get off at the right station – see above. When you do get off at 5-a, head to the second floor of the market.  Exit 7. When you come out of the station take the first right and keep walking until you see the sign that says Gwanjang Market.

The map of all the stores

While inside the market continue walking straight through the meat market until you see the sign for the vintage market right in front of you. Take the stairs up to the second floor and ta da!

The hidden stairs that lead up to the Vintage Market.

The opening times aren’t clear as most instructions are the operating hours for the market downstairs. Happy shopping.